Series II, Savile Row suits are in three
production methods: off the rack,made to measure and bespoke . Here we full
custom process for the the savile row of top (bespoke), to talk about several
techniques to identify high-quality custom suits.
1. One special edition
One special edition tailors specifically
according to the guests of the Body of a Shi family level cut out a version of
the type, but not like some of the country known as the advanced custom tailors
the same as under the existing version of the type be modified adjusted (that
is, professional said push Edition), as can only be regarded as semi-custom. In
China does not have a British sense of tailored suits, suit using interlining
not really advanced custom suits. The domestic custom semi-custom, including
authentic Italian big men in the country are also semi-custom service (full
custom British or Italian tailors fly domestic services, immediately led to the
suit prices turned several times. General rich and spending power at home and
abroad will be specially flew to the European custom)
2. Horn button
or pearl shell button
3. A suit or shirt, the most common finished
resin buckle, or even poor quality plastic buckle. This is a noble style
requirements, Mr. Saville's top tailors Mahon, specially pointed out that the:
Savile suit buttoned must be some kind of natural material made, good selection
of which is the horn. But sometimes, the Savile Row suit with pearl shell
button to get a nice glossy.
3. Buttons arranged
The clasp on the left is an overlap above
the other buttons, called shells button, to the right of a temporary one called
kissing button, the world's top suit like kiss, this seems more orthodox and
solemn
.
4. Keyhole way
Top tailored suits, all buttonholes are
hand lock cuff buttons below to open a real buttonholes and hand-keyhole,
rather than the machine buttonhole, handmade buttonhole long working hours,
generally 15 minutes to one, and may not have the machine the keyhole so neat,
but its worth as a top-level suit flag if indispensable, it is not top custom
suit.
5. The bar and on the grid
Striped or plaid fabric suit, Savile Row
great attention on the strip, on the grid. The pocket cover stripes and pocket
to cover the bottom of the stripes should on plaid on plaid and sleeves of the
body is to be consistent. In general, very labor-, while the grid is not only
the material costs and labor. The following figure, the left of the suit on the
grid is very neat, perfect and flawless, the right of the obvious even to bar
did not do. Tailoring of Savile Row suit, adhering to the British tradition,
emphasizing the fit, Slim and lines of sense. Often shoulder slightly wider,
the waist, the upper body was hourglass. Shoulder pads thinner allows the
shoulder line and natural arm to provide enough space for activities.
6. Style
Saville suit style as much as other parts
can not be compared. T-shirt often there is a change in your pocket, oblique
bag and straight bags, for example, where the size of the bag can be used in
accordance with the actual needs of customers size requirements do. Pencil
case, cell phone pocket, card bags, small interest-bags, big bags small bags
and other options. Of course, style is determined by factors such as the shape,
color and occasion wear. Former Prime Minister Tony Blair, often dressed in
oblique pocket style;, or the right to add a ticket the bag (ticket pocket).
Pants there are thousands of styles to choose from, the British like plain
front pants look wrinkled or double pleat pants front.
Matthewaperry recommended men wearing no
province, rather than select provinces. If stature is very fat, can choose to
double the province to increase the slender sense of appropriate visual, so
dress seems more beautiful
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