Jacket Buttoning Ritual

The ritual of suit and sport jackets “buttoning and unbuttoning” is very simple:  Each time a man or woman wearing a suit or sports jacket sits, he or she unbuttons one jacket button. And every time he or she stands, the person re-buttons the jacket button.
I love rituals.  There is something knowing and beautiful about  participating in the intentional repeating of a pattern of behavior.  Being a part of a ritual allows the ability to communicate volumes with a simple action or series of actions.   We may light candles, do sun salutations, tuck a child into bed a certain way, clink wine glasses while making eye contact but not cross glasses during a toast, or even adjust our wardrobe in a certain way when we sit or stand. The ritual feels lovely and this is perhaps why we enjoy repeating it.
In regard to jacket buttoning and unbuttoning, the practical reason for unbuttoning a suit jacket when sitting is obvious since if the button remains buttoned while sitting, the tension placed on the button-hole and button causes wear and tear on the tailoring work and robustness of the cloth and stitching over time.
The custom of buttoning just one button of the classic jacket could be a little less practical in application.  Apparently King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 – 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button of his vest fastened and so His subjects followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button. Or, the practice of not buttoning the bottom button could be a result of early (very long) waistcoat design. So, to allow for more ease during walking, the bottom buttons were left undone.
Men have known this buttoning ritual for ages, but many women are perhaps oblivious to some degree.  Notice how Don Draper in the Mad Men series pulls off the buttoning/unbuttoning ritual effortlessly : MAD MEN.
This ritual may vary from culture to culture (e.g., in Japan and China, business people and uniformed students could be expected to fasten all buttons regardless of jacket styles.)
While there are many variations on this detail of unbuttoning and buttoning, the standard sitting while unbuttoning and standing while buttoning is an iconic practice that is worth capturing here.
Many men are often proud to say that they are in touch with their feminine side and we laugh about this and appreciate it at the same time.  So in turn, by participating in what has traditionally been viewed as male culture, women can discover a certain strong appeal and aura of power in experiencing the world of their male counterparts, as well.

http://www.matthewaperry.com/

Related article: http://bespokesuits123.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-sign-of-our-times- old-is-new.html

The Cuff Styles

THE CUFF
Even with a suit coat, the shirt cuff is always visible and deserves some contemplation to get the overall look that you want. Here are eight cuff choices that offer a great starting point when experimenting with cuff cuts.


French cuff.

Angle cut simple cuff.






the related post: http://www.topmensuit.com/index.php/history-repeating/ http://ctdtailor.blogspot.com/2013/05/solid-black-wool-suit.html http://www.customtailoredsuit.com.au/index.php/return-savile-row/ http://www.customtailoredsuit.com.au/index.php/return-savile-row/

Dressing Men’s Necks

 

According to Alan Flusser, a doyen of modern men’s dress, 1827 was a particularly significant year for the collar. This is when a certain Mrs Montague, of Troy, New York, no less, cut the collars from her husband’s shirts, because they were a nuisance to iron. ‘Thus was born the detachable collar.’[i] Flusser is right, but his no-nonsense guide to fine dress overlooks the fact that Mrs Montague’s act of sartorial vandalism – even if her husband’s shirts were ‘filthy’ – was to revive a style, rather than create one.

Since the sixteenth century aristocratic men (and women) had been wearing detachable collars or ruffs, as the starched and frilled variants are invariably termed, to denote their membership of an early modern Leisure Class. Like their American successors, whom Thorstein Veblen theorised about in the nineteenth century, the early adopters of the ruff, whose head was literally ‘held high in an attitude of disdain’, indicated to all that they were unable to undertake practical labours, and did not need to.[ii] The ruff had an avowedly sociological purpose, as portraits of Ançien Régime aristocrats reveal. It was also delicate. If the intricately cut and embroidered starched lace got wet, it would instantly droop, which would have been a fitting, if frustrating, reminder that facades can slip.
The powerful portraiture also shows that the silhouette of men’s dress between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries was generally tubular, although toward the end of this period shoulders were narrower.[iii] So long as the sun shone, the ruff increased the man’s physical size and, simultaneously, drew attention to the terminus between the body and head.

http://mansuits-suits.blogspot.com/2013/05/british-tailoring- straight-to-point.html

Men’s Suits Linings

A rarely discussed point when buying a suit, sport jacket, or blazer is the issue of the jacket lining.
You see – most men don’t even realize they have an option.
But you do – especially when buying custom or at a higher end menswear store.
This leads to the question – which type of jacket is better -Lined or Unlined?
Because both unlined and lined jackets have their benefits – the answer isn’t clear cut.
In fact – the question above is in my opinion the wrong one to ask.  Instead the question should be:
Which jacket style – lined or unlined – is best for your individual needs?
In this article I’ll be discussing the pros and cons of jacket linings – because a man should always know what his options are.
Jacket linings come in a wide variety of materials and styles, ranging from a full lining of brightly-colored silk to a completely unlined jacket.
First, a few menswear definitions: 
The “lining” of the jacket should not be confused with the “canvas.”
The canvas is a layer of material attached to the inside of a jacket to give it shape, while the lining is a thinner layer of cloth that lies between the wearer’s body and the canvas and jacket interior.
Some jackets are unlined. In this case, the inside will be finished in the same material as the outside.
Since a lining hides some seams, an unlined jacket typically requires more professional finishing, which increases the cost.
Half-lined jackets usually have lining across the upper half of the back and down the sides of the jacket, but not on the lower part of the back.
Quarter-lined or butterfly jackets are similar to a half-lining, but with the lining removed from the sides of the jacket. Only a small panel across the back and the sleeves are lined.
Skeleton lining means what it sounds like — as little lining as possible, usually only a small covering in the upper back to protect the suit canvas.

Advantages of a Jacket Lining
A lined jacket has more weight to it. The extra layer of cloth helps tug the garment firmly down on your shoulders, making it fall smoothly from top to bottom.
Lining also provides protection for the inside of the jacket. Not only does it help absorb any sweat you might generate (reducing the need for frequent dry cleaning), it also provides another layer of cloth to stretch when your body moves. This reduces the amount of tugging on the actual suit material, extending its lifespan.
Certain pocket styles are sewn into the lining, particularly interior breast pockets (sometimes called “eyeglass pockets”). Unlined jackets lack these pockets, and usually need the somewhat informal patch-style pockets on the outside.
Lined jackets are usually less expensive than unlined because they require less interior finishing. Linings can also be replaced reasonably easily if they wear out, whereas a worn jacket interior means it’s time for a new jacket.

Advantages of an Unlined Jacket
Despite the advantages of a lining, many men swear by unlined or skeleton linings.
A primary reason for buying an unlined jacket is summer or hot-weather wear: unlined jackets are simply lighter and more breathable.
Quarter-lining can be a good compromise for men who want a bit of added durability and the option of interior pockets.
Loose-weave fabrics like seersucker, hopsack, and many linens are more difficult to fit a lining for.
The lining needs to be able to tighten and go slack whenever the jacket does, and a typical lining won’t have the same amount of tension in it as these looser weaves.
Getting it fitted right is a challenge even for a skilled tailor.  An improperly-fitted lining will make the jacket bunch and wrinkle, ruining its drape.
Unlined jackets have a softer and more natural shape that many men prefer for their casual styles.

Typical Lining Fabrics
Most jackets are lined with acetate fabrics. Bemberg is probably the most well-known material, and one of the most dependable. An alternative synthetic is the Ermazine brand, made from viscose.
Silk is sometimes used to make suit linings, particularly brightly-colored and decorative ones, but it is much hotter than synthetics and bunches easily. Most tailors will only make silk-lined jackets on request, and may try to discourage customers from them.
Cotton linings are cheap but uncomfortable, and should be avoided.

Conclusion: When to Line and When Not to Line
Linings add weight and durability to a jacket. However, they also stiffen the drape and hold in more heat.

Suits/jackets that should be lined:
· Business suits in light, delicate wools
· “Three-season” or winter suits
· Cotton sports jackets (they usually benefit from the added stiffness)
· Very frequently-worn jackets

Suits/jackets that should be unlined:
· Lightweight summer jackets
· Loose-weave fabrics like seersucker
· Casual jackets with a deliberately soft shape (stiffens them up too much)

Of course, you can often find a middle ground with partial linings, such as a skeleton lining to protect the canvas of a linen summer suit without adding too much extra weight to it.

related post:
http://bespokesuits123.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to- effectively-buy-clothing-online.html

http://www.matthewaperry.com/

Solid Wales Gray Custom Suit

$ USD 289.00

Fabric: 100% wool
Wool Yarn:Super 100's
Occasion: business meeting

A classic and popular type of custom suit and never lacks of any details A little changes have been made on the lapel to make you look slender. Slim fit makes you look spirited.Its really a prefect style for as a everyday suit. 

 

Black Satin Shawl Lapel Wedding Suit

$ USD 299.00 

 

Fabric: Wool
Wool Yarn:100's
Occasion: Wedding

This type of wedding suit for men is made of 100%wool.Styled with classic satin shawl lapel,it looks full of elegance and high-grade.As well,satin is used on the pockets both side of the suit jacket.We highly recommend this type custom suit for your wedding which definitely improves your temperament and make you look sharp in the big event.

You Hunt on Horseback in Your Suit?

The English are sporty people, and men often wore jackets while riding horseback or hunting.  Their jackets were designed with vents in the back that allowed the clothing to fall smoothly while riding a horse.  These jackets also contained hacking pockets, which were cut to make them easier to access while on horseback.  And speaking of pockets, some hunting jackets also were constructed with a variety of interior pockets.  These pockets could be large enough to hold small pheasants the hunter had bagged.  Modern suits also have numerous pockets, but they have been updated to hold more modern tools like wallets and cell phones.  Some early twentieth century suits had small front ticket pockets that commuters could place their train tickets in while commuting to work.  This feature is still found on modern jackets, but it mainly serves aesthetic purposes.